Australian Federation Fashion

The famous 'S'-shaped corset was introduced in 1900 and was claimed to follow the natural line of the body. The result was a large overhanging bust and small waist which was counterbalanced by a bell-shaped skirt.

Between 1890 and 1910 dress bodices and blouses, though they had a rigid under structure, were softly overlaid with pastel-coloured lace and net chiffon draped in gentle folds over the bust; skirts were fluted to skim the hips and sweep outwards at the hem, with a short train at the back.  Hair was puffed out and built up over pads, known as rats, inserted along the front of the head. Hats were large, with curved brims.

After 1905 the S-shaped line began to straighten up so that by 1908 there was a vertical rather than a curved silhouette.

The waistline was raised above its natural level, narrowing the skirt and introducing a longer and straighter fitting corset. The skirt, aptly named the 'hobble' skirt, was cut straight to the ankle with barely a flare, making it impossible to take more than the shortest of steps.

The most common town dress for men during this period was the lounge suit. It was almost a uniform for the middle and lower classes, who bought their clothes from the local tailor or ready-made. Usually worn with narrow pants, the jacket had three or four buttons. A shirt with a stiff collar, a bowler and a single-breasted Chesterfield coat with an Edwardian velvet collar completed the outfit.

By the time war broke out in 1914, skirts had shortened slightly, and by 1915 the skirt was several inches above the ankle, widening at the hem to ensure more freedom of movement. Although the short skirt was not a creation of the war, war-time hurried this movement along since a more practical form of dress was desirable for women.

During these years a sharper contrast between day and evening wear was becoming evident. By day, the practical tailor-made suit, with loosely belted jacket and walking skirt, or tailored dress, in serviceable cloths and colours, were preferred, while luxury and glamour were strictly reserved for evening.

This tendency continued after the war. A new sense of ease promoted by the adoption of soft pliable, jersey knit fabrics for the so-called 'jumper suits' created comfortable but elegant day clothes.

1910 to 1919 was a particularly interesting time for menswear. Young men no longer wanted to look older than they were. They no longer wanted to resemble their elders. They were influenced in their style of dress by the competitive spirit of sport. Those who wore suits often chose the 'dandy' look, with a two or three button single- breasted jacket with high, nipped waist and unpadded, naturally sloping shoulders, with narrow cuffed trousers, cut short above the ankle, revealing boots or shoes with slightly raised heels. The alternative for those who opted not to wear suits was the 'tradesmen's' attire. This consisted of corduroy trousers, or overalls with heavy shoes, a bulky sweater or an oversized smock.

Australia's contribution to this decade was the 'cossie'. With the population hugging the coastline, swimming became the national recreation, and the Australian institution of the Surf Life Saving Club was born, with each club having a distinctive competitive costume.

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