Australian Fashion 1919 to 1945

After the Great War, more emancipated and independent women, known as 'flappers,' appeared in society. The silhouette became tubular - skirts remained longish, with a lowered waist. Chinese paper parasols were all the rage.

Until 1924 the level of the hemline fluctuated, but always between ankle and mid-calf. Towards the end of that year it began to rise, was noticeably shorter in 1925 and had reached knee-level by 1926. As the skirt shortened the silhouette slimmed down and by 1927 women appeared to be increasingly streamlined. The deep crown and narrow brim of the cloche hat became severer in shape and more fitted. The neat effect was made possible by cutting the hair short. Busts were flattened as much as possible.

For evening, simplicity ruled. Tube-shaped dresses accentuated by a sash, uneven hemlines, bangles and very long necklaces were the main features, complemented by the use of cosmetics - face powder, lipstick and eyebrow pencil.

By the last two years of the decade the first signs of a reaction against the functional uncompromising line began to appear. Initial attempts were made to raise the level of the waist and lengthen the skirt while introducing more shape.

Similarly for men, there were two distinct styles of dress during this decade. Firstly, an updated version of the dandy, with flannel jackets which were boldly dyed with clashing stripes of outrageous violence: red and purple, green and yellow, blue and grey, in wide vertical bands. Cuffed trousers remained cropped above the ankle, but were fuller in the leg.  In the latter part of the decade, the sweater appeared in the casual wardrobes of the wealthy. Jacquard patterns were most popular and emerged in all forms - crew neck, V-neck, turtleneck, shawl neck, and also in vest form. They were tucked into increasingly baggy trousers, imitating sailors and skiers, and were worn with the suspenders on the outside of the sweater.

A gradual increase in the femininity of clothing was once again noticeable. The formerly boyish girl now exhibited a rounded bust, permitted a slight curve to be seen at her waist and allowed her hair to grow into a shingle.

Skirts were lowered to mid-calf, tended to be longer at the back than at the front and showed godets below the knees, giving extra fullness there instead of at hip level. Bodices were attached to the skirt by slanted or diagonal seams. Short bolero jackets were added for day dresses.

Smart replaced chic in the Australian Women's Weekly fashion vocabulary. Cotton, which Chanel began using in high-fashion clothes, was tailored into 'beach pyjamas' in the latter part of the decade. Flared trousers and loose short coats were accompanied by large, floppy-brimmed hats.

The softly feminine fashions were soon rivalled by a more masculine style. Shoulders began to swell out. Day coats, suits and dresses were fitted with shoulder pads, widening the top of the figure and minimising the size of the newly important small waist. For day, sombre colours such as navy, brown, black and grey were most predominant.

The passion for sunbathing increased, and so did the importance of beachwear.

Evening gowns of trailing chiffon, opulent velvet or svelte satin were popular, always complemented by a pair of matching or contrasting gloves in the same fabric. Gloves were the fashion statement of the decade.

Fashion in general was impressed by the glamour of the American film industry which introduced new standards of luxury and further encouraged the use of cosmetics.

Menswear reached new heights of elegance during this decade. The long, six-button double-breasted jacket had broad lapels, accentuated square shoulders and ventless tails hugging cylindrical hips. Long wide trousers enhanced the column shape and served as the basis for an athletic silhouette.

The outbreak of World War ll found women all over the world with over-waved and over-curled hair, on which shallow crown hats were tilted. Shoulders were exaggeratedly square, and skirts of medium length and of comfortable walking width were employed for the war's duration. For the first five or six years of the decade, fashion everywhere was at a standstill. Rationing of material meant that garments were very basic in design.

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